Christmas In Chiapas - Part 3 - El Sumidero Canyon (National Park)

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When the Spanish first arrived in Mexico, there were fierce battles with the indigenous peoples.  Many of the warriors threw themselves off the cliffs and into the canyon, preferring death to slavery.  The warriors believed they would be taken to the afterlife.

The embarcadero in the Sumidero Canyon

On this particular day, we took a tour of the Sumidero Canyon.  It was much more than we had expected in many respects.  The boats, the security, the length of the ride, the crocodiles and monkeys, and most of all, a very good explanation of the canyon on the part of our captain.

Our group met for breakfast at the hotel, and the tour van picked us up at 9 a.m.  Off we went for a ride through the mountains.  Up we went to the park that overlooks the canyon to get a view of where we were going to spend the next several hours.  From the windows, we would get a peek at what was coming.   We stopped at a lookout and we could see the river winding its way through the canyon.

After half an hour, we were off again, beginning our descent to the embarcadero (docks) where the boats load passengers and take off.  No one was exempt from wearing a life vest, which was a good thing.  The boats have giant outboard motors, V8 engines capable of going 90 kph.  Our maximum speed was 60 kph, and that was fine by us.  You can see in the picture below that there was some apprehension on my part!

Off we went with our group, life vests and the captain at the wheel.  He was an older guy about our age and had over 30 years of experience on the river.  He would make stops along the way, sharing factual information about the river as well as some sights that you'll see below.

This fern grows on the canyon wall is known as the Christmas tree because of its shape.  During the rainy season it becomes a waterfall.  We stopped very close to it, and water was still sprinkling down on us.

In November 2021, a German rope walker, Alexander Schultz, crossed the canyon on a tight rope.  Get this, he did it blindfolded.  The length across the river was 1,712 meters, and at a height of 800 meters.  Talk about nuts!  I'm glad there are people like that.  They can do the work for me.  I prefer to have my two feet firmly planted on the ground.  No parasailing, hot air balloons, batwing flying, etc.  I'm happy watching.  No death wishes here.

The pink, brown, white, and black colors in the "Cave of Colors" within the Sumidero Canyon are produced naturally by the minerals and salts dissolved in the water that filters and runs down the rocky walls, creating vivid hues on the limestone.  There were many boats on the river that day, and we had to take turns going into the cave.  

This would make a great campsite!  Imagine spending the night there.  Watch out for crocodiles, though!

Left middle, you can see a monkey sitting in the trees.  It wasn't an easy shot, and the captain hit some rocks, damaging the propeller on the engine, but not enough to affect the tour.  He got things going again within minutes.  Should something have happened, he would radio another boat going by, and all would be fine.

As you pass other boats, everyone gives a big wave!

As our trip was coming to a close and we were leaving the canyon, yellow flowers began to appear.  These are "yellow bells" (Tecoma stans), also known locally as candox or tronadora.

National park check to make sure everyone on board has a ticket.  Some of us didn't, as we have the Mexican old-age card.  We waved it in the air as we stopped in front of the station, and we were good to go.

Out of the canyon now, we were nearing the end of a great tour, ride, and much, much more.  Always nice to talk to people from other places.  We met a couple and their son from the Yucatan.  They told us what a disaster the Tren Maya has created with all of the pilings bored into the cenotes.   Rust, cement, trash from the workers, and more, now lie in the once crystal waters that people use for drinking water.

Saving this picture for last.  Yikes!

We got off the boat at a town called Chiapa de Corzo  where we were to meet the driver to take us back to San Cristobal de las Casas.  We had time for a quick snack and a walk around the town square.  It was a great day.   Back at the hotel we rested up and headed out for dinner.  

Christmas In Chiapas - Part 2 Trip To The Indigenous Town Of Chamula

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The group decided to take a tour of the indigenous town of San Juan Chamula.  We're not big on tours, but we agreed to do two during our time together.  This was a good idea as Chamula is a closed town.  In other words, you are a guest of the people here.  We met at the hotel restaurant for a quick breakfast, and off we went down the street to the main plaza.  Our contact, Raul, showed up right on time.  He introduced us to our guide, and we met two other couples from Spain and Holland (Linda and Stefan).  The ride was short and the road winding. 

When we arrived, we got out here at the cemetery.  This was a walking tour, so we weren't sure exactly what to expect.  Our guide started off with the rules, and there was really only one: take no pictures unless instructed that it was allowed.  No pictures of people, especially children.  Should you get caught taking a picture and there are people in it, the fine is 4200 pesos, and you'll have to erase them from your phone or camera.

The name of the people and their language is Tzotzil.  Their religion is a mix of Mayan and Catholicism.  There are no tombs but only well-constructed dirt mounds.  They offer Coca-Cola, liquor, and fermented alcohols such as "pox" (puch).  Most are bilingual but always speak in their own language. 

Women dress in a long skirt made of black sheep's wool.  On the first days we were in San Cristobal de las Casas, we would see a few women wearing dresses, but we thought they were fake fur.   They shave the wool from the animal, card it, and weave the dress.  All the women wear this and nothing else.   For me, it is used for long coats similar to those from the "roaring 20s" in size and shape over jeans with the tan colored construction or work boots.  For the men, it is a sign of money and power.  How would they know if we are taking pictures?  Leaders, both political and religious, carry radios and alert others to photographers, thieves, child kidnappers, and other crimes.  When the call is given, they gather and corner the delinquent and perform justice.  I imagine it is probably lynching.  

Off we went for a walk through the town.  Like most places today, cellphones, social media, music, and lots of flashing lights dominate the small shops.  There is a government office for Bienestar, which hands out money for the bimonthly stipends for people 65 and over, women 60 to 64, single mothers' pension, and money for students.  That said, it is a thriving town with paved streets and many cars. 

Next up was a visit to the church.  Much different from what anyone would expect.  Again, no pictures, no pews or seats, floors covered in pine needles, and thousands of candles, life-size statues line the perimeter, but not on the walls, in cases standing on the floors.  

The statues lined up around the walls all have a mirror on their chest.  Since there are no priests, only leaders and shamans, you look into the mirror to confess your sins.  Pine needles cover the floors as I said, along with the candles.  There is no electricity in the church, so the little light that exists comes from the candles, which fill the interior with smoke. Of course, most foreigners commented on the chance of fire.  It's never happened.  Americans are full of rules and what-ifs.  Tzotzil women give birth to their children in the church with family gathered around and a meter or two of cloth held up to provide privacy.  Chickens and sheep are also sacrificed for certain holidays or rituals.

Coca-Cola is everywhere.  You find it in the cemetery, used as an offering in the church; it is more common than water.  The average person in Chamula drinks 2 liters a day.  Apparently, back in the 60s, a deal was struck between the cola distributor and the town leader, establishing the drink as the official religious offering. 

The last part of the walking tour was a visit to a local Txotxil home.  Women were weaving tableclothes and mats and in the small house, another woman had built a fire and had black beans, tortillas, and guacamole for us to eat.  Although simple, it was quite delicious.  My favorite Mexican food is flour tortillas with freshly cooked beans, nopales with pico de gallo.  Simple always seems to bring out the best taste.

The last stop for the day was the town of Zinacantán.  This is another Tzotzil community about 20 minutes from Chamula.  Quite a bit different, the people are more open to outsiders.  You can take pictures, but with permission.   Known as the "pueblo de flores" (town of flowers), the area is known for its fresh flower production.

Two shaman are waiting in the plaza next to the church.  They will participate in a ritual that takes them from the altar area of the church to the outdoors.  There, they formed a circle and passed around bottles of pox.  

Apart from their colorful dress, the shaman are identified by their shoes.  The shoes are made with a solid wood platform and leather tops to cover their ankles and the tops of their feet.

Spaniards arrived to the part of Chiapas in the 1480s.  80% of the population can read and write but have an average educational level of 5th grade primary.  Basic education and then off to work with family business or work on the farm.  

The day we were there, an event was being held in the church with piñatas, fire crackers, and of course the drink.   The altar is filled with saints, those taught to them by the Spanish upon their arrival.  However, it is mixed with cosmovision, or the connection between Mother Earth and the cosmos.  

After a day touring Chamula, we met later for happy hour, a walk through town, and then dinner out.

Christmas In Chiapas - Part 1

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It was that time of year again.  Oh, how I love Christmas time.  The Christmas tree, the lights, the overall laughter and good cheer.  So many memories as a child growing up.  This year, like the last few, we have gotten together with two other couples.  We chose San Cristobal de las Casas for this year's Christmas.  We've never been to this state before, so we were really looking forward to it.  In my work travels, Chiapas was off the list because of Comandante Marcos and the EZLN guerrilla groups.  

Before leaving home, we decided to put up the tree and a few Christmas decorations.  I'm glad we did.  Now that we are back home (both with horrific colds and flu symptoms), we can enjoy sitting in the living room and reminiscing.  

Our flight was uneventful.  Again, we chose to fly Vivaaerobus which has a one-way flight to SCC.  The flight was scheduled for 6 a.m., meaning we would have to leave the house very early, waking up at 2:30.  Not anymore.  We chose a hotel at the airport which is located 500 meters from the car park.  Driving and parking is cheaper than taking a taxi.  No more application drivers, such as Uber and Didi, allowed in or out of Mexican airports.  In a few months, the new metro line to the airport will be completed, and that will make it easier, faster, and less expensive.  Everything worked as planned.  Up at 4 a.m., coffee in the room, and dropping off the car at the parking.  The shuttle was waiting for us (we made a reservation online).  We arrived at the terminal and into the security area minutes later.  We still had 30 minutes to spare, and with only one carry-on and a personal item, we walked right on to the plane, no check-in required.

I think they fudge on their travel times to improve their on-time performance.  Maybe not, I'm no expert on that.  The flight is said to take 2 hours and 20 minutes, but checking flight times, it arrives at 10:35. Pretty good.  We don't pay for seats so we were separated this time by one row but both of us had aisle seats.  We bought a coffee on board along with a muffin to share.  Well worth it and much cheaper than airport food when you can avoid it.

The airport in Chiapas has recently been remodeled.  Wow, what an incredible experience.  Pictures do not do it justice.  

Juan had booked a collective taxi, which was waiting for us.  A very nice van with 13 seats.  We were taken to a drop-off point in SCC and then we took a taxi from there.  350 pesos per person versus 1400 for a private taxi.  Great scenery as we climbed 1,600 meters, winding and curving.

Our friend Paula made the hotel arrangements and they were the best we have ever had.  They had arrived a couple of days before us and she sent me a message saying how much I would like it for its cleanliness.  It is super clean and very comfortable.  We shared many evening happy hours together.  The owner is the best ever.  A hotel started from a family home on a large lot that now has 23 rooms and a small restaurant.  The hotel employees bend over backwards to help the guests and are the friendliest ever.  We couldn't have found an Airbnb for that price.

The gardens are beautiful.  Judge for yourselves.  We met every morning in the courtyard and on several occasions had breakfast at the inn.  I highly recommend the place.  Three blocks to the city square, where there are historic sites, museums, and street after street with all types of restaurants and prices to fit any budget.

Arriving early in the morning gave us a chance to catch up with everyone and go into the square to get acquainted.  They do have small coffee makers in the rooms.  We were told they don't do much in terms of hot coffee.   I carry my trusty heating coil and small packets of Nescafé and that worked well for us this trip, except for coffees out!  

More to come as we experienced a trip to the indigenous town of San Juan Chamula and all its secrets and a boat ride through the Sumidero Canyon.