Friday, June 14, 2019

Day Trip - Capula, Home of the Catrina

I'm being lazy lately by not posting all of our day trips.  On Wednesday we drove to Capula.  Capula is 60 km from Santa Clara and 30 km from Morelia.  Funny, we haven't been to Morelia on this trip although we have been there many times.  

Capula is home to the famous Catrina calavera (skeleton) art.  Jose Guadalupe Posada was a satirical cartoonist from the late 19th century who died a pauper in 1913.  Although he was well-known for his political cartoons using the skeleton image of politicians he was forgotten in his last years.  

The town of Capula dedicates itself to creating statues of famous people, professions of all types, as well as continuing the tradition of political figures.   

As always, our first stop was the town square and the church.  I know that the past wasn't in black and white but it helps me to capture the feeling of what things may have been like at that time.  After all, everything we have seen from the past in photography has been in black and white including most of my favorite movies.  

The churchyard is quite large and has a certain air about it.  There was just one kid there on his cell phone but it makes a great place to take a nap.   Surrounded by high walls there is very little street noise inside.

The first shop we entered had a wonderful display and if you should go there they are in the main square with the signage up above of the word Capula.  Excellent quality, a bit high on price but we didn't see anything else that quite met the artist standard they acheive.  

All of the work is done by hand.   I was surprised thinking that they purchase some of the work from a factory or at least the clay figures and then paint them.  They really work hard and do an incredible job.  I'm sorry we didn't buy one but no more "stuff" in the house.  They also do some very good dishware that is sold individually and in sets, and I am not talking about the traditional brown-fired clay but very colorful and tasteful pieces (not like talavera).  I'm sorry I didn't get a picture but I may have one from a store in Patzcuaro. 

Every year they sponsor the Feria de Catrina which, obviously, is held during the end of October through the middle of November.   They say the streets are filled with vendors selling all of these fantastically beautiful pieces.   There are murals on the outside walls of the shops that depict various scenes of catrinas.

Oops, I guess this sourpuss mug was confused with one of the murals although there is still too much meat on the bones. 

The new town square.

 We had a wonderful day and of course, we had lunch there.  This is a very small town of only 5000 people so we only found two food vendors on the street.   The one restaurant that was recommended to us was closed for the day.   We each had a tlayuda for lunch and split a soda for 50 pesos, $2.50 U.S.  The drive from Santa Clara is truly scenic and we enjoyed it quite a bit.   Lots of lush green fields with cows and horses along the road, people working the fields and kids coming and going from school.  

Yesterday we took a drive to Tzintzuntzan.   We weren't expecting much as we haven't found much information on the internet regarding the town.  They do have some ruins that have been reconstructed from over 1000 years ago but there is a hidden jewel I will share with you if haven't seen it.  That's coming up.

This is the house we have been sitting here on the ranch.  We have enjoyed it immensely and our stay is coming to an end.  We have one more week and hope to take advantage of it.   We will miss the dogs as they have loved our attention as much as we have theirs.  

Once we're gone there are some things I want to share that were good and some not so good about the areas we have explored.  I shouldn't say not so good but disappointing to some degree.


  1. Thanks for the catchup ,another interesting place to explore.

  2. I guess the Catrina skeleton art is like either love it or hate it. I love cilantro and hate the skeletons! Each to their own.