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The group decided to take a tour of the indigenous town of San Juan Chamula. We're not big on tours, but we agreed to do two during our time together. This was a good idea as Chamula is a closed town. In other words, you are a guest of the people here. We met at the hotel restaurant for a quick breakfast, and off we went down the street to the main plaza. Our contact, Raul, showed up right on time. He introduced us to our guide, and we met two other couples from Spain and Holland (Linda and Stefan). The ride was short and the road winding.
When we arrived, we got out here at the cemetery. This was a walking tour, so we weren't sure exactly what to expect. Our guide started off with the rules, and there was really only one: take no pictures unless instructed that it was allowed. No pictures of people, especially children. Should you get caught taking a picture and there are people in it, the fine is 4200 pesos, and you'll have to erase them from your phone or camera.
The name of the people and their language is Tzotzil. Their religion is a mix of Mayan and Catholicism. There are no tombs but only well-constructed dirt mounds. They offer Coca-Cola, liquor, and fermented alcohols such as "pox" (puch). Most are bilingual but always speak in their own language.
Women dress in a long skirt made of black sheep's wool. On the first days we were in San Cristobal de las Casas, we would see a few women wearing dresses, but we thought they were fake fur. They shave the wool from the animal, card it, and weave the dress. All the women wear this and nothing else. For me, it is used for long coats similar to those from the "roaring 20s" in size and shape over jeans with the tan colored construction or work boots. For the men, it is a sign of money and power. How would they know if we are taking pictures? Leaders, both political and religious, carry radios and alert others to photographers, thieves, child kidnappers, and other crimes. When the call is given, they gather and corner the delinquent and perform justice. I imagine it is probably lynching.
Off we went for a walk through the town. Like most places today, cellphones, social media, music, and lots of flashing lights dominate the small shops. There is a government office for Bienestar, which hands out money for the bimonthly stipends for people 65 and over, women 60 to 64, single mothers' pension, and money for students. That said, it is a thriving town with paved streets and many cars.
Next up was a visit to the church. Much different from what anyone would expect. Again, no pictures, no pews or seats, floors covered in pine needles, and thousands of candles, life-size statues line the perimeter, but not on the walls, in cases standing on the floors.
The statues lined up around the walls all have a mirror on their chest. Since there are no priests, only leaders and shamans, you look into the mirror to confess your sins. Pine needles cover the floors as I said, along with the candles. There is no electricity in the church, so the little light that exists comes from the candles, which fill the interior with smoke. Of course, most foreigners commented on the chance of fire. It's never happened. Americans are full of rules and what-ifs. Tzotzil women give birth to their children in the church with family gathered around and a meter or two of cloth held up to provide privacy. Chickens and sheep are also sacrificed for certain holidays or rituals.
Coca-Cola is everywhere. You find it in the cemetery, used as an offering in the church; it is more common than water. The average person in Chamula drinks 2 liters a day. Apparently, back in the 60s, a deal was struck between the cola distributor and the town leader, establishing the drink as the official religious offering.
The last part of the walking tour was a visit to a local Txotxil home. Women were weaving tableclothes and mats and in the small house, another woman had built a fire and had black beans, tortillas, and guacamole for us to eat. Although simple, it was quite delicious. My favorite Mexican food is flour tortillas with freshly cooked beans, nopales with pico de gallo. Simple always seems to bring out the best taste.
The last stop for the day was the town of Zinacantán. This is another Tzotzil community about 20 minutes from Chamula. Quite a bit different, the people are more open to outsiders. You can take pictures, but with permission. Known as the "pueblo de flores" (town of flowers), the area is known for its fresh flower production.
Two shaman are waiting in the plaza next to the church. They will participate in a ritual that takes them from the altar area of the church to the outdoors. There, they formed a circle and passed around bottles of pox.
Apart from their colorful dress, the shaman are identified by their shoes. The shoes are made with a solid wood platform and leather tops to cover their ankles and the tops of their feet.
Spaniards arrived to the part of Chiapas in the 1480s. 80% of the population can read and write but have an average educational level of 5th grade primary. Basic education and then off to work with family business or work on the farm.
The day we were there, an event was being held in the church with piñatas, fire crackers, and of course the drink. The altar is filled with saints, those taught to them by the Spanish upon their arrival. However, it is mixed with cosmovision, or the connection between Mother Earth and the cosmos.
After a day touring Chamula, we met later for happy hour, a walk through town, and then dinner out.
Thanks for such an interesting post .
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