Saturday, May 23, 2026

Caste Chapultepec - What A Difference

living.boondockingmexico@yahoo.com

The night our housesit left, it was quite late.  We had been dragged through the mill getting to the apartment during rush hour traffic.  The next day, we walked to the market and through the neighborhood.



When we arrived at the airport on Wednesday, we bought a MetroCard.  The card costs 15 pesos, and each trip depends on the type of transport.  Metro is 5 pesos, bus is 6 pesos and trolleybus is 7 pesos.  We hopped on the bus below.  At major stations, there are ATMs to buy more trips and check your balance.  

Rested up on Friday, we decided it was time to take advantage of the Big Tamal and head down to the center of the city and visit the Chapultepec Castle.


The buses are very nice and a good ride.  The double-deckers make for great photos of the city.  More of those later.  There are security cameras on board, a list of all the stops on the route, and screens that announce the upcoming stop.  We asked a couple of people questions about the best stop to get off, the cost of the ride, and general information regarding the card and its use.  Everyone is very helpful and friendly.  Why not?  After all, this is Mexico.


This is the standard daytime traffic.  The roundabouts are a real trip to watch.  I drove in Mexico City in 2007 on and off for a year.  That was enough.  Stopped once for an illegal turn, the cop wouldn't let me go without a bribe.  I insisted on the ticket, but no go.  I had a company car with all of my equipment, and I couldn't afford to have it taken away and impounded.  So, he came back a couple of times to talk to me,e and the last time I said, "No hablo Español" and rolled up my window.  I crossed my arms and sat there.  After half an hour, they took off.  



Getting off the bus at the Chapultepec stop, we walked over to the Bosque de Chapultepec (forest surrounding the palace).  We passed many stands opening up to sell their souvenirs, snacks, and drinks.


The entrance to the bosque and castle.





The temperature was rising,g and the sun was getting hot.  Walking through the forest up to the castle, we were in the shade.  There were long lines to get in,n and we resigned ourselves to wait.  However, a guard came down along the line and said anyone with an INAMPAM card and over 60 could enter free via another line.  Regular admission is 210 pesos ($11.50).  That was a real deal.  Of course, we got to the metal detector,s and they said that this was only for seniors.  We had to whip out our IDs.  I don't get it, I think we look in our 70s.  

The palace is enormous and very overwhelming.  I felt like we were about to enter the El Prado museum in Madrid.  When Mexicans want to do something grand, nd they are very, very good at it.  



A very small preview of the city skyline.  I would have had to videotape it all the way around the palace.


Quite a long yet short history.  The original castle was built by a virrey (the head delegate representing the King of Spain) in 1785.  There were 62 virreyes in power during the 3300-year Spanish rule.  However, not all of the virreyes were from Spain.  Several were from South America, such as Peru, and also from Cuba.   Since that time, it has been a mansion, an imperial palace, a military base,e and now a museum.   During those 250 years, it has suffered from earthquakes.  The first occurred in 181,9 leaving the palace in ruins, ns only to be rebuilt within a few years.  The big hit of 1985 did some damage, but it was easily remodeled.




1785-1787 Beginning of the construction under a virrey.  Started but not completed due to his death.  

1838-1841  The existing part of the new construction came under the control of the Colegio Militar, and a Caballero Alto (tower) was built for lookout and warning of attacks.

1864-1867  French intervention and the monarch Maximiliano of Habsburg and his wife Carlota brought a major remodel using a European style.  They were both executed in 1867.

1872-1910 Porfirio Diaz and his30-yearr dictatorship.   He added the cupola to the observatory.  He also installed the first telephone line in 1887 and had phone lines installed from the castle to the center of the city's government offices.  He used the castle as a summer retreat.  Porfirio is an interesting story.  He was responsible for modernizing the country with railroads, telegraph, telephone, and electrification.  Too bad they kicked him out, but after the thirty-year dictatorship, it was time to go.  He was a smart man who laid the foundations for a modern Mexico.  Of course, the revolution brought an end to that. 

Many presidents used the palace, but Los Pinos (white house) was built in the city center,r and the palace was turned into a museum in 1940 by Lazaro Cardenas.  He was responsible for the 90 years of destruction by nationalizing PEMEX (now with a $125 billion debt).















It was quite a day.  We did just over 12,000 steps, amazing considering we took the bus to the center and back.  We stopped for a sincronizado, small pasta dish, and coffee for 150 pesos.  Not bad, filling, and enough to get us back home.   Tons more photos to share, but we are off again to the Zocalo.  I have some great antique clock pics I took.  I know I always mention the fact that I was a clockmaker's apprentice,e so they still fascinate me.



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