I'm Slowly Losing My Identity - Rv Dealers (Ughh)

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This trip didn't start out so well.  I had made all the reservations in advance: air, hotel, rental car, and RV dealer appointments.  No issues were getting to the airport or parking the car.  Check-in and immigration were smooth.  The flight was only 40 minutes, and it beat driving in the Mexico/Texas heat for eight hours.  U.S. immigration was a breeze, and we were both out in less than a minute.  There is nothing in the system that says I live in another country.  They always say, "welcome home".   You would think that social security and border crossings, along with immigration, talked to each other.

Then reality set in.  We arrived at the car rental counter all smiles.  I pulled out our reservation, my passport, and my driver's license.  She looked at me and said, "Your passport and driver's license don't match.  The new rule, the Real ID Act, is in full force.  My passport is U.S. and my driver's license is Mexican.  No match, no rental car.  She cancelled the reservation and refunded my money.  All the car rentals said the same.  We had to sit down and make a new reservation with another company under Juan's name.  Why?  His Mexican passport and driver's license match.  We found a very nice Avis agent who is from Mexico (30 years ago) and who understood the situation.  She gave us a very good deal.  The line behind us was long, but she didn't want to stop chatting.  I asked about the cost for an additional driver, and she said that as spouses, there was no charge.

This is the model we seem to like the best.  It's roomy for 16ft, has two twin beds or king, and makes into great sofas for daytime use.  It has a full-size fridge, and a smaller air conditioner.  It weighs less than 2800 lbs.  Perfect for us.

We've been out every day checking dealers around San Antonio.  I should have retired here in the U.S. and become an RV salesman.  These guys know nothing.  The small units we are looking at mostly have a small 5000 BTU window air conditioner in a cabinet that works much better than roof air.  All the ones that do have roof air have a 13.5 BTU air conditioner, the same one they slap on all RVs from 12ft to 32 ft or more.  I asked a salesman, and he said, "Oh, they stopped doing the small air conditioner years ago".  Oh really!  I showed him how the Murphy bed worked in one RV, and that the sofa conversion had built-in recliners.  He didn't know.  Out of five dealer visits, we had one that said, "I used to work for the phone company, and after 30 years, I got tired of climbing poles.  I've been selling RVs for three months, and I have learned more from you in the last hour than my company".    And believe me, I am no expert.  I told one old fart he needed to get out of the office and go sit in the RVs and check them out, see how all the bells and whistles work.  This is a highly unregulated business.

We have run into a hitch in the works.  I am no longer a U.S. resident.  When I went to renew my Texas driver's license, I had no proof of residence, which requires a passport, an official Texas ID card, a physical address (our Laredo mailbox doesn't count and the feds are on to mailbox companies), a utility bill, and bank statements that match.  I was greatly concerned about how I would purchase and plate an RV in Texas.  That's our plan to leave it in a Laredo storage and use it in the U.S.  Leave it up to companies that want to sell something.  Three of the dealers said to pay cash, they will issue the physical plates and send the documents to the mailbox, leaving the state paperwork blank with just my social security number.  Now, can we use a Mexican-plate tow vehicle with a U.S.-plated travel trailer?  That's up next.

We had a fun day with our friend Giovanna.  We picked her up and went to Costco.  We buy our vitamins there.  Costco Mexico doesn't sell vitamin C.  In fact, good luck finding high-dose, high-volume packs of vitamin C in Mexico.  At GNC they sell the 1000mg tablets but charge a fortune.  Smaller, expensive bottles can be had at pharmacies, including Similares, but expensive as well.  We had a small brunch at Costco, walking around and sampling foods.  She wasn't that familiar with RVs and was fascinated with one of the visits we made.  

We still have a couple more visits this week, but we have pretty much made a decision on what we would like to buy.  

Part One Of The Project Complete - Now On To Part Two

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It takes us quite a bit of time to make decisions.  We've lost out on many deals by doing our due diligence but we feel it was worth the wait.  If we lose the deal, well, there will always be another one.  

The Durango continues to run well, but at 20 years old, I wouldn't want a breakdown in the middle of nowhere.  It is a hard sell as well because of the 500,000 kms on the odometer.   Apart from that, it has the largest Chrysler engine for an SUV.  With gas prices in Mexico above $5 US a gallon, it is not a favorite.  We need to lower the price; I propose $ 3,000 US.

We searched for six months for a new SUV and finally found one we like.  It is a 2022 VW Teramont (Atlas in the U.S.) with a 3.6L V6 engine and tows just over 5000 lbs.  Enough for a very small travel trailer.  Mileage is 67,000 km.

The original owners have a small child.  The wife uses the SUV as a mom's soccer car (if that's a good description).  It's not at home yet.  We will pick it up on the 22nd.  It was in for its maintenance at the dealer.  They did a 42-point inspection.   We took it to another VW dealer who did a more intense inspection.  We found some very minor things we used as negotiation; a cracked mirror shell, and we want new tires.  The engine is in superb shape with excellent compression on all cylinders. It has a factory tow package that includes a Class III hitch, wiring harness with seven-pin connector, enhanced transmission and cooling package, along with a trailer sway control.  

We leave tomorrow for San Antonio on Viva Aerobus.  Early morning flight, we pick up a car and head for the hotel.  I have arranged visits with five different RV dealers in the area to look at trailers that will fit our needs.  I am still trying to figure out the license and plates for the trailer.  Neither one of us is a U.S. (state) resident anymore and Texas is very strict about that.  South Dakota may or may not work out as a nomad resident state not having a current U.S. driver's license.

 

The Monterrey airport has not had any incidences so far.  No groups have blocked the roads and the parking says they have room and haven't experienced anything out of the norm.  However, the first World Cup game in Monterrey starts tomorrow and that could be reason enough for protesters to block highways around Monterrey and the airport.  

The Truth Isn't Always Pleasant

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A lot is happening right now, and we are still wrapping up a few loose ends from our Mexico City trip. At the same time, we have been planning a trip to Texas to look for a new travel trailer. We want something small, but highly functional for our travels around the U.S.

Logistically, getting to San Antonio was our main hurdle. To solve this, we decided to fly and rent a car. Crossing the border itself won't be an issue; Juan has everything he needs, including his Mexican passport, U.S. travel visa, and six months' worth of pension and bank statements. Flying also completely eliminates our biggest worry: driving around small Texas towns with Mexican license plates, which could attract unwanted attention from highway patrol or immigration checkpoints.

We booked a centrally located hotel that includes a full breakfast and a manager's happy hour with snacks, wine, and beer. It feels like we are finally biting the bullet—if we don't just do it, it will never get done.

Since June is Pride Month, the topic has been on our minds, though we don't know much about it. We are fairly conservative and prefer to keep to ourselves. We have certainly faced our share of discrimination over the years, though we don't equate it to the discrimination people face based on color, race, religion, or disability. Many people have tried to school us over the years, claiming that the discrimination we experience is "self-inflicted," saying, "Well, it is your choice".  

I'm glad to think that heterosexuals made such a great choice! We aren't paranoid, nor do we really care what people say. Even though our families are very accepting, they still introduce us as a "friend of the family." Other times, people will introduce us and explicitly add, "they're gay." It always makes us laugh to think about reversing it—imagine introducing our friends Harold and Maude (what a great movie!) and adding, "and they’re straight." It sounds absurd, doesn't it?

We notice this dynamic most when we are on the road. People see our Mexico plates, get curious about our travels, and strike up a great conversation. But the moment we use the pronoun “we,” they often literally turn around and walk off.

Well, we are used to it by now. We just count our blessings and keep things in perspective. Imagine being Black, gay, Jewish, disabled, and LGBTQ? Now that would be a real humdinger, wouldn't it?  In the end, we find it amusing.

A follow-up on our subway experience in Mexico City.  Here are a few pictures of what we encountered.  

They've made a mess and spent a fortune, including the purchase of wall sconces in some stations.  Really?

If you don't know, major forces are doing what they can to stop the World Cup in Mexico.  Agro groups with their tractors, semidrivers with their trailers, and thousands of teachers are set to block airports.  It is getting pretty fierce as these groups are retaliating against the police and Guardia Nacional.  

In the case of Monterrey, our illustrious state governor had promised many projects that would facilitate the aficionados flocking to the city.  The new metro line to the airport, city parks, a new water park, public transport direct to the stadium, including a monorail valued at 1 billion USD, all of which are not going to be completed by this week.  A tragic waste of public funds and use of tax pesos.  Getting to the airport now is complete chaos, and with the supposed blockades by protesters,s we may have chosen a not-so-good time to go on our travel trailer hunt.

Going back to Tlateloco, I forgot one important point about the location.  The Massacre of 196,8 where government troops and military entered the square with army tanks.  They rolled into the square via a major overpass, plowing under parts of the ruins which had been excavated and researched.  The Mexican government's official death toll was 32.  However, families have documents showing up to 300 killed.  

The causes were the same around the world at the time.  In the U.S., it was the Ohio State killings.  In Mexico, students began gathering and rioting as they felt the Mexican Revolution had never fulfilled its purpose of socialist democracy.  Levels of poverty were at an all-time high, roughly 72%.  

The summer Olympic Games were to take place that year.  Just months before, ex-president Diaz Ordaz gave the order to put an end to it and clear the streets of squatters and demonstrators.  In classified and declassified documents, Diaz Ordaz gave the order to kill if necessary.  You can see the apartment buildings that were built to make way for a new era of socialism, but to really clean up the squalor that had been built around Tlalteloco.  Soldiers took to the roofs and shot down on the crowds. 

While in Mexico City, we watched a movie, Rojo Amanecer, a Mexican movie that details the life of a family living in one of the buildings.  Their teenagers were caught by the secret police, beaten, and the whole family was killed.  

Are we in for another round with the World Cup in the next couple of weeks?   

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Three Days, 600 State Troops And Police, They Wouldn't Let Us In

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Before I get into the trip to the Zocalo, I want to go back a bit to the ruins at Tlateloco.  We returned to find a portion that had been closed when we went. It is by appointment only.  It is called the Caja de Agua.  

The Caja de Agua was a two-tank water cistern system built at the base of the convent in 1536.  It brought water to the area for use by the indigenous people, the clerics, and the monks.  It had a settling tank where the incoming water would settle.  The fresh water on top would pass to the "potable" tank.  The water source came from three areas: Azcapotzalco, Tacuba, and Chapultepec.  The water system was made from clay pipe, some from the prehispanic period.  

The day we went, they told us we could only enter by appointment and that there was a tour set for the students from the American School in Puerto Vallarta.  We pretty much begged, saying we were leaving the next day.  After a few phone calls, the tour guides agreed to let us join the school group.  The students were not interested, and the teacher cut the tour short.  The two archaeologist guides were very interested in showing us around.  Wow, a private tour.  

This drawing depicts Ahuizotl, the god and protector of Tlaloc, the god of water.  It is an otter-type animal and has a hand on the end of the tail.  

Around the perimeter are pieces of the later mural or moulding that have a 16th-century style.   Because the walls collapsed over the centuries, the pieces fell to the bottom and sides of the crumbling walls.

I was wrong in stating that the Amantes de Tlateloco were not there.  On the way out of the tour, we walked through the ruins, and we asked about the lovers.  At that moment, one of the guides said, "Look down," and there it was.  

We attempted to visit the Zocalo and the cathedral on three occasions.  Each time, we were met by blockades on 12 different avenues.   Teachers have been striking for months and are now planning marches against the National Palace.  They have camped out on the streets for over six months and have created chaos for all around them, mostly those who rely on the streets for the delivery of goods, including taxis.  

This is just one street.  The teachers are taking turns living there.  They cook, clean, and do their laundry as well.

The national palace was blocked off and barricaded.

On the third attempt, or our last day in Mexico City, Juan decided he would find a way in.  We begged, pleaded, and tried at every possible street entrance to no avail.  We finally convinced one policeman that we were just tourists on our last day and would go directly to the cathedral.  We got past the blockade and acted as if we were going to a jewellery store on the Zocalo perimeter.  We then passed through a construction site and made our way into a side entrance of the cathedral.   We have been there many times, but each time is something new.  This trip, we were able to take a short tour of the organ room, which is situated in the middle front of the cathedral.

The construction of the cathedral took over 240 years, beginning in 1573.  It is the largest and oldest cathedral in all of Latin America.  The site was almost abandoned in the 1600s due to a massive flood.  It was completed in 1813.  A fire consumed a great part of the organ room in 1967.  The organ room contains twin organs with pipes which were restored to near original condition. 

The cabinets that house the organs measure 52ft by 31 ft.  There are 3350 metal organ pipes.  

Two rows of seats determine which row the choir members will sit.  The ones with permanent positions sit up above, and the new members below.  Above and around the choir seats are wood-carved sculptures of Christian saints, apostles and bishops.

Overall, it was a great week with furkid time.  The cat was really a lover and would sit on our laps whenever we were home.  I think she doesn't get a lot of personal attention.  

I'm a realist and not an optimist, so I don't think we'll be going back soon.  The city is changing, and the neighbourhoods are in slow decay.  We were in a building that took up one city block, 7 floors, with 300 apartments.  The noise from the streets reverberates between the buildings, and everyone has a dog, so barking is constant.  Most of the places we have stayed in the past have dual or triple-pane windows, which block out the sound.  This building didn't.  

The biggest enemy you'll face in Mexico City neighbourhoods is dog poop everywhere.  Our building has signs that ask you not to let your dog pee on the walls.  All of them do, and a cleaning lady is out there all week scrubbing the walls.  

After our first day, we found out that all public transport is free for those over 65 if you are a Mexican or a permanent resident.  That was a good thing.  We needed to show our INAPAM (Instituto Nacional de las Personas Adultos Mayores) cards to get on at no charge.  

Except for tourist areas and museums, the city is overcrowded, difficult to walk in, and the sidewalks are in deplorable condition.   Trash looms on every corner in large piles.  Street people empty the trash bags and take off with the bags.  A lot of old furniture and old cars line the streets.  

It's worth the visit along major avenues such as Reforma, Eje Central, the Zocalo and upper-scale neighbourhoods; Roma, Condesa, Nápoles and the ultra-rich areas for a peek at how Mexico's wealthy live.  

Next up is our trip to Texas.  I'm not sure if we'll drive or fly like last year.  I have several rv dealers to visit on our search for a small travel trailer.  Nothing definite yet, just checking.

It Is Right Around The Corner - Tlatelolco Pyramids

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On 

Sunday, we decided to go for a walk.  We knew it was going to rain,n but it said late afternoon.  Never trust the weather in Mexico City; it can change on a dime.  We headed out looking for a bazaar that was in the neighborhood with antique sellers.  We left the apartment, turned the corner, and walked two blocks, and there it was.  Tlatelolco!  The lesser Great Pyramid.  

The main pyramid was discovered by an American archeologist whose only job at the time was to dig a pit similar to a well to see what layers, if any,y were under this part of the city.  He hit the jackpot.  

This is a sacrificial pit where children were sacrificed to the gods.  Hmm, great religion, I must say.

The Mexica left the central part of Mexico, Tenochtitlan, and decided to form their own society.  They moved to this area where there was less swamp and more sand, better for building structures and growing food.  The material in the area, tezontle or porous volcanic rock, also used as a lawn decoration today, was easily chiseled and cut into pieces.

When first discovered, there were two very small tunnels that led underneath the pyramid.  From there, they began to discover human remains and artifacts.   You can see the modern buildings around this area.  This was a very controversial project in 1968, creating a huge rift between citizens and government,t where over 200 people were killed, mostly students.  The clash took place during the opening of the 68 Olympics.  Student unrest was suppressed by the government.  Government records say that 32 people were killed.  The buildings replaced older homes and shacks where people had squatted over the years.  This was all for the Olympics and,d of course, modernization.

Back to the history of the Mexica, these pyramids were built in the 13th century, not long before the Spanish arrived.  Life continued as normal until they arrived in 1521.  The emperor Cuahtemoc fled Tenochtitlan and headed for Tlatelolco and hid during the 80-day siege.  That was the final stand as the Spaniards were now taking over.  Between Tehotehuacan and Tlateloloc, these were the largest markets in Latin America at the time, and indigenous groups from all over came to trade goods.

Under this area, during excavation, 210 skeletal remains were discovered.  It is believed that it was once a sacred burial place for those members of the government and hierarchy at the time.  Of those 210, because of the position and way in which they were buried, it is believed that many were Spanish soldiers killed in clashes.

One particularly famous burial site on these grounds was that of the Amantes de Tlatelolco, or Lovers of Tlatelolco, found buried together in a loving embrace.   This is not my picture.

The church in the background was built in 1610 on top of the ruins.  A very common practice over the millennium with all people around the world and all religions.  The structure is huge and made out of some of the tenzontle from the buildings and pyramids that were destroyed.  

It turned out to be an interesting day followed by a great lunch at the Casa de Toño.  A Mexican chain of very affordable restaurants.  The place was packed, and we had a short wait of 20 minutes.   My concuña, or Juan's sister-in-law to me, told us about it. 

A bit of Mexican news.  It was decided just tw weeksagog that the school calendar year would be reduced to accommodate the World Cup. The decision was made at the last minute, leaving parents and teachers in an uproar.  A three-week reduction in the school year would require at least one year to schedule.  The next day it was cancelled.  Imagine the embarrassment on the part of the government.   In Monterrey,y where some of the games will be played, the game schedule was after 7 p.m. and on weekends, ds so there wouldn't have been any interference with school schedules.

You are aware of the Mexican governor from the state of Sinaloa stepping down and being indicted in the U.S. for his participation with the narcos.  Also, the governor of the state of Chihuahua, who used CIA operatives without federal authorization to shut down the largest fentanyl lab ever.  The president made a comparison saying that there was no difference between the two, and the Chihuahuan governor is being investigated by the FGR (federal attorney general).  Comparision?  Are you nuts?  One is involved with the cartels, and the other is trying to eliminate them.  So much for attempting to do good.

We're off to the Zocalo.

Castle Chapultepec - What A Difference

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The night our housesit left, it was quite late.  We had been dragged through the mill getting to the apartment during rush hour traffic.  The next day, we walked to the market and through the neighborhood.

When we arrived at the airport on Wednesday, we bought a MetroCard.  The card costs 15 pesos, and each trip depends on the type of transport.  Metro is 5 pesos, bus is 6 pesos and trolleybus is 7 pesos.  We hopped on the bus below.  At major stations, there are ATMs to buy more trips and check your balance.  

Rested up on Friday, we decided it was time to take advantage of the Big Tamal and head down to the center of the city and visit the Chapultepec Castle.

The buses are very nice and a good ride.  The double-deckers make for great photos of the city.  More of those later.  There are security cameras on board, a list of all the stops on the route, and screens that announce the upcoming stop.  We asked a couple of people questions about the best stop to get off, the cost of the ride, and general information regarding the card and its use.  Everyone is very helpful and friendly.  Why not?  After all, this is Mexico.

This is the standard daytime traffic.  The roundabouts are a real trip to watch.  I drove in Mexico City in 2007 on and off for a year.  That was enough.  Stopped once for an illegal turn, the cop wouldn't let me go without a bribe.  I insisted on the ticket, but no go.  I had a company car with all of my equipment, and I couldn't afford to have it taken away and impounded.  So, he came back a couple of times to talk to me,e and the last time I said, "No hablo Español" and rolled up my window.  I crossed my arms and sat there.  After half an hour, they took off.  

Getting off the bus at the Chapultepec stop, we walked over to the Bosque de Chapultepec (forest surrounding the palace).  We passed many stands opening up to sell their souvenirs, snacks, and drinks.

The entrance to the bosque and castle.

The temperature was rising,g and the sun was getting hot.  Walking through the forest up to the castle, we were in the shade.  There were long lines to get in,n and we resigned ourselves to wait.  However, a guard came down along the line and said anyone with an INAMPAM card and over 60 could enter free via another line.  Regular admission is 210 pesos ($11.50).  That was a real deal.  Of course, we got to the metal detector,s and they said that this was only for seniors.  We had to whip out our IDs.  I don't get it, I think we look in our 70s.  

The palace is enormous and very overwhelming.  I felt like we were about to enter the El Prado museum in Madrid.  When Mexicans want to do something grand, nd they are very, very good at it.  

A very small preview of the city skyline.  I would have had to videotape it all the way around the palace.

Quite a long yet short history.  The original castle was built by a virrey (the head delegate representing the King of Spain) in 1785.  There were 62 virreyes in power during the 3300-year Spanish rule.  However, not all of the virreyes were from Spain.  Several were from South America, such as Peru, and also from Cuba.   Since that time, it has been a mansion, an imperial palace, a military base,e and now a museum.   During those 250 years, it has suffered from earthquakes.  The first occurred in 181,9 leaving the palace in ruins, ns only to be rebuilt within a few years.  The big hit of 1985 did some damage, but it was easily remodeled.

1785-1787 Beginning of the construction under a virrey.  Started but not completed due to his death.  

1838-1841  The existing part of the new construction came under the control of the Colegio Militar, and a Caballero Alto (tower) was built for lookout and warning of attacks.

1864-1867  French intervention and the monarch Maximiliano of Habsburg and his wife Carlota brought a major remodel using a European style.  They were both executed in 1867.

1872-1910 Porfirio Diaz and his30-yearr dictatorship.   He added the cupola to the observatory.  He also installed the first telephone line in 1887 and had phone lines installed from the castle to the center of the city's government offices.  He used the castle as a summer retreat.  Porfirio is an interesting story.  He was responsible for modernizing the country with railroads, telegraph, telephone, and electrification.  Too bad they kicked him out, but after the thirty-year dictatorship, it was time to go.  He was a smart man who laid the foundations for a modern Mexico.  Of course, the revolution brought an end to that. 

Many presidents used the palace, but Los Pinos (white house) was built in the city center,r and the palace was turned into a museum in 1940 by Lazaro Cardenas.  He was responsible for the 90 years of destruction by nationalizing PEMEX (now with a $125 billion debt).

It was quite a day.  We did just over 12,000 steps, amazing considering we took the bus to the center and back.  We stopped for a sincronizado, small pasta dish, and coffee for 150 pesos.  Not bad, filling, and enough to get us back home.   Tons more photos to share, but we are off again to the Zocalo.  I have some great antique clock pics I took.  I know I always mention the fact that I was a clockmaker's apprentice,e so they still fascinate me.