Three Days, 600 State Troops And Police, They Wouldn't Let Us In

living.boondockingmexico@yahoo.com

Before I get into the trip to the Zocalo, I want to go back a bit to the ruins at Tlateloco.  We returned to find a portion that had been closed when we went. It is by appointment only.  It is called the Caja de Agua.  

The Caja de Agua was a two-tank water cistern system built at the base of the convent in 1536.  It brought water to the area for use by the indigenous people, the clerics, and the monks.  It had a settling tank where the incoming water would settle.  The fresh water on top would pass to the "potable" tank.  The water source came from three areas: Azcapotzalco, Tacuba, and Chapultepec.  The water system was made from clay pipe, some from the prehispanic period.  

The day we went, they told us we could only enter by appointment and that there was a tour set for the students from the American School in Puerto Vallarta.  We pretty much begged, saying we were leaving the next day.  After a few phone calls, the tour guides agreed to let us join the school group.  The students were not interested, and the teacher cut the tour short.  The two archaeologist guides were very interested in showing us around.  Wow, a private tour.  

This drawing depicts Ahuizotl, the god and protector of Tlaloc, the god of water.  It is an otter-type animal and has a hand on the end of the tail.  

Around the perimeter are pieces of the later mural or moulding that have a 16th-century style.   Because the walls collapsed over the centuries, the pieces fell to the bottom and sides of the crumbling walls.

I was wrong in stating that the Amantes de Tlateloco were not there.  On the way out of the tour, we walked through the ruins, and we asked about the lovers.  At that moment, one of the guides said, "Look down," and there it was.  

We attempted to visit the Zocalo and the cathedral on three occasions.  Each time, we were met by blockades on 12 different avenues.   Teachers have been striking for months and are now planning marches against the National Palace.  They have camped out on the streets for over six months and have created chaos for all around them, mostly those who rely on the streets for the delivery of goods, including taxis.  

This is just one street.  The teachers are taking turns living there.  They cook, clean, and do their laundry as well.

The national palace was blocked off and barricaded.

On the third attempt, or our last day in Mexico City, Juan decided he would find a way in.  We begged, pleaded, and tried at every possible street entrance to no avail.  We finally convinced one policeman that we were just tourists on our last day and would go directly to the cathedral.  We got past the blockade and acted as if we were going to a jewellery store on the Zocalo perimeter.  We then passed through a construction site and made our way into a side entrance of the cathedral.   We have been there many times, but each time is something new.  This trip, we were able to take a short tour of the organ room, which is situated in the middle front of the cathedral.

The construction of the cathedral took over 240 years, beginning in 1573.  It is the largest and oldest cathedral in all of Latin America.  The site was almost abandoned in the 1600s due to a massive flood.  It was completed in 1813.  A fire consumed a great part of the organ room in 1967.  The organ room contains twin organs with pipes which were restored to near original condition. 

The cabinets that house the organs measure 52ft by 31 ft.  There are 3350 metal organ pipes.  

Two rows of seats determine which row the choir members will sit.  The ones with permanent positions sit up above, and the new members below.  Above and around the choir seats are wood-carved sculptures of Christian saints, apostles and bishops.

Overall, it was a great week with furkid time.  The cat was really a lover and would sit on our laps whenever we were home.  I think she doesn't get a lot of personal attention.  

I'm a realist and not an optimist, so I don't think we'll be going back soon.  The city is changing, and the neighbourhoods are in slow decay.  We were in a building that took up one city block, 7 floors, with 300 apartments.  The noise from the streets reverberates between the buildings, and everyone has a dog, so barking is constant.  Most of the places we have stayed in the past have dual or triple-pane windows, which block out the sound.  This building didn't.  

The biggest enemy you'll face in Mexico City neighbourhoods is dog poop everywhere.  Our building has signs that ask you not to let your dog pee on the walls.  All of them do, and a cleaning lady is out there all week scrubbing the walls.  

After our first day, we found out that all public transport is free for those over 65 if you are a Mexican or a permanent resident.  That was a good thing.  We needed to show our INAPAM (Instituto Nacional de las Personas Adultos Mayores) cards to get on at no charge.  

Except for tourist areas and museums, the city is overcrowded, difficult to walk in, and the sidewalks are in deplorable condition.   Trash looms on every corner in large piles.  Street people empty the trash bags and take off with the bags.  A lot of old furniture and old cars line the streets.  

It's worth the visit along major avenues such as Reforma, Eje Central, the Zocalo and upper-scale neighbourhoods; Roma, Condesa, Nápoles and the ultra-rich areas for a peek at how Mexico's wealthy live.  

Next up is our trip to Texas.  I'm not sure if we'll drive or fly like last year.  I have several rv dealers to visit on our search for a small travel trailer.  Nothing definite yet, just checking.

It Is Right Around The Corner - Tlatelolco Pyramids

living.boondockingmexico@yahoo.com

On 

Sunday, we decided to go for a walk.  We knew it was going to rain,n but it said late afternoon.  Never trust the weather in Mexico City; it can change on a dime.  We headed out looking for a bazaar that was in the neighborhood with antique sellers.  We left the apartment, turned the corner, and walked two blocks, and there it was.  Tlatelolco!  The lesser Great Pyramid.  

The main pyramid was discovered by an American archeologist whose only job at the time was to dig a pit similar to a well to see what layers, if any,y were under this part of the city.  He hit the jackpot.  

This is a sacrificial pit where children were sacrificed to the gods.  Hmm, great religion, I must say.

The Mexica left the central part of Mexico, Tenochtitlan, and decided to form their own society.  They moved to this area where there was less swamp and more sand, better for building structures and growing food.  The material in the area, tezontle or porous volcanic rock, also used as a lawn decoration today, was easily chiseled and cut into pieces.

When first discovered, there were two very small tunnels that led underneath the pyramid.  From there, they began to discover human remains and artifacts.   You can see the modern buildings around this area.  This was a very controversial project in 1968, creating a huge rift between citizens and government,t where over 200 people were killed, mostly students.  The clash took place during the opening of the 68 Olympics.  Student unrest was suppressed by the government.  Government records say that 32 people were killed.  The buildings replaced older homes and shacks where people had squatted over the years.  This was all for the Olympics and,d of course, modernization.

Back to the history of the Mexica, these pyramids were built in the 13th century, not long before the Spanish arrived.  Life continued as normal until they arrived in 1521.  The emperor Cuahtemoc fled Tenochtitlan and headed for Tlatelolco and hid during the 80-day siege.  That was the final stand as the Spaniards were now taking over.  Between Tehotehuacan and Tlateloloc, these were the largest markets in Latin America at the time, and indigenous groups from all over came to trade goods.

Under this area, during excavation, 210 skeletal remains were discovered.  It is believed that it was once a sacred burial place for those members of the government and hierarchy at the time.  Of those 210, because of the position and way in which they were buried, it is believed that many were Spanish soldiers killed in clashes.

One particularly famous burial site on these grounds was that of the Amantes de Tlatelolco, or Lovers of Tlatelolco, found buried together in a loving embrace.   This is not my picture.

The church in the background was built in 1610 on top of the ruins.  A very common practice over the millennium with all people around the world and all religions.  The structure is huge and made out of some of the tenzontle from the buildings and pyramids that were destroyed.  

It turned out to be an interesting day followed by a great lunch at the Casa de Toño.  A Mexican chain of very affordable restaurants.  The place was packed, and we had a short wait of 20 minutes.   My concuña, or Juan's sister-in-law to me, told us about it. 

A bit of Mexican news.  It was decided just tw weeksagog that the school calendar year would be reduced to accommodate the World Cup. The decision was made at the last minute, leaving parents and teachers in an uproar.  A three-week reduction in the school year would require at least one year to schedule.  The next day it was cancelled.  Imagine the embarrassment on the part of the government.   In Monterrey,y where some of the games will be played, the game schedule was after 7 p.m. and on weekends, ds so there wouldn't have been any interference with school schedules.

You are aware of the Mexican governor from the state of Sinaloa stepping down and being indicted in the U.S. for his participation with the narcos.  Also, the governor of the state of Chihuahua, who used CIA operatives without federal authorization to shut down the largest fentanyl lab ever.  The president made a comparison saying that there was no difference between the two, and the Chihuahuan governor is being investigated by the FGR (federal attorney general).  Comparision?  Are you nuts?  One is involved with the cartels, and the other is trying to eliminate them.  So much for attempting to do good.

We're off to the Zocalo.

Castle Chapultepec - What A Difference

living.boondockingmexico@yahoo.com

The night our housesit left, it was quite late.  We had been dragged through the mill getting to the apartment during rush hour traffic.  The next day, we walked to the market and through the neighborhood.

When we arrived at the airport on Wednesday, we bought a MetroCard.  The card costs 15 pesos, and each trip depends on the type of transport.  Metro is 5 pesos, bus is 6 pesos and trolleybus is 7 pesos.  We hopped on the bus below.  At major stations, there are ATMs to buy more trips and check your balance.  

Rested up on Friday, we decided it was time to take advantage of the Big Tamal and head down to the center of the city and visit the Chapultepec Castle.

The buses are very nice and a good ride.  The double-deckers make for great photos of the city.  More of those later.  There are security cameras on board, a list of all the stops on the route, and screens that announce the upcoming stop.  We asked a couple of people questions about the best stop to get off, the cost of the ride, and general information regarding the card and its use.  Everyone is very helpful and friendly.  Why not?  After all, this is Mexico.

This is the standard daytime traffic.  The roundabouts are a real trip to watch.  I drove in Mexico City in 2007 on and off for a year.  That was enough.  Stopped once for an illegal turn, the cop wouldn't let me go without a bribe.  I insisted on the ticket, but no go.  I had a company car with all of my equipment, and I couldn't afford to have it taken away and impounded.  So, he came back a couple of times to talk to me,e and the last time I said, "No hablo Español" and rolled up my window.  I crossed my arms and sat there.  After half an hour, they took off.  

Getting off the bus at the Chapultepec stop, we walked over to the Bosque de Chapultepec (forest surrounding the palace).  We passed many stands opening up to sell their souvenirs, snacks, and drinks.

The entrance to the bosque and castle.

The temperature was rising,g and the sun was getting hot.  Walking through the forest up to the castle, we were in the shade.  There were long lines to get in,n and we resigned ourselves to wait.  However, a guard came down along the line and said anyone with an INAMPAM card and over 60 could enter free via another line.  Regular admission is 210 pesos ($11.50).  That was a real deal.  Of course, we got to the metal detector,s and they said that this was only for seniors.  We had to whip out our IDs.  I don't get it, I think we look in our 70s.  

The palace is enormous and very overwhelming.  I felt like we were about to enter the El Prado museum in Madrid.  When Mexicans want to do something grand, nd they are very, very good at it.  

A very small preview of the city skyline.  I would have had to videotape it all the way around the palace.

Quite a long yet short history.  The original castle was built by a virrey (the head delegate representing the King of Spain) in 1785.  There were 62 virreyes in power during the 3300-year Spanish rule.  However, not all of the virreyes were from Spain.  Several were from South America, such as Peru, and also from Cuba.   Since that time, it has been a mansion, an imperial palace, a military base,e and now a museum.   During those 250 years, it has suffered from earthquakes.  The first occurred in 181,9 leaving the palace in ruins, ns only to be rebuilt within a few years.  The big hit of 1985 did some damage, but it was easily remodeled.

1785-1787 Beginning of the construction under a virrey.  Started but not completed due to his death.  

1838-1841  The existing part of the new construction came under the control of the Colegio Militar, and a Caballero Alto (tower) was built for lookout and warning of attacks.

1864-1867  French intervention and the monarch Maximiliano of Habsburg and his wife Carlota brought a major remodel using a European style.  They were both executed in 1867.

1872-1910 Porfirio Diaz and his30-yearr dictatorship.   He added the cupola to the observatory.  He also installed the first telephone line in 1887 and had phone lines installed from the castle to the center of the city's government offices.  He used the castle as a summer retreat.  Porfirio is an interesting story.  He was responsible for modernizing the country with railroads, telegraph, telephone, and electrification.  Too bad they kicked him out, but after the thirty-year dictatorship, it was time to go.  He was a smart man who laid the foundations for a modern Mexico.  Of course, the revolution brought an end to that. 

Many presidents used the palace, but Los Pinos (white house) was built in the city center,r and the palace was turned into a museum in 1940 by Lazaro Cardenas.  He was responsible for the 90 years of destruction by nationalizing PEMEX (now with a $125 billion debt).

It was quite a day.  We did just over 12,000 steps, amazing considering we took the bus to the center and back.  We stopped for a sincronizado, small pasta dish, and coffee for 150 pesos.  Not bad, filling, and enough to get us back home.   Tons more photos to share, but we are off again to the Zocalo.  I have some great antique clock pics I took.  I know I always mention the fact that I was a clockmaker's apprentice,e so they still fascinate me.

Mexico City - Nothing Is Perfect

living.boondockingmexico@yahoo.com

Nothing is perfect in this world including mine.  We took off from the house for the airport around 12:30.  Taxis are super expensive now.  From our house the price has gone up to 2000 pesos.  We can take the bus from our house to Walmart and then take an Uber for 700 pesos  That said, we can park at the airport for the week and it is 1400 pesos.  

Can you take an Uber from the airport in Monterrey to the city?  Sure you can.  There is a caveat.  Get this, straight from the horse's mouth.  Ubers are not allowed to exit the airport.  Many won't even take you to the airport.  So how does it work?  The Uber driver has to pay the Guardia Nacional partrol 600 pesos per week and the driver will receive a password.  The Uber driver will get stopped for sure.  The Guardia Nacional make it very clear it will happen.  What next?  The Uber driver says he has a password which he gives to the GN.  The GN calls it in to his coworkers and he is cleared to go.  

Corruption is worse now than ever.  Unbelievable.  Blantant and more open than in my previous 40 years.

At the airport we left the car and boarded the shuttle.  Our driver was an Uber driver up until three months ago.  He told us the story about the corruption, pay off, and the reasons he quit and took the shuttle job.

Aeromexico is very easy to use.  We weren't happy with their inflight service to London but the business side of the airline works well.  You don't need to show any identification, you don't have your carry on weighed or measured.  30 seconds at the ticket counter only because we don't pay for seats.  She put us together in row 39.  We're happy with that.  Aeromexico does seem to cheat a bit on their on time records.  The flight was scheduled for 1 hour and 40 minutes.  Please.  It's an hour and 5 minutes and we always get there five minutes early.  The capitan announced, "as always, on time or we arrive early!".   

The metro is a nightmare.  We hit rush hour and there is construction throughout the system.  The floors are broken up for retiling which makes it hard to walk.  No signage on rail changes and the air is thick with dust.  They do have a policeman at each station but not enough to handle the thousands of people moving around the city.  We missed one station because people wouldn't let us off even though we pushed and shoved and were called some pretty rotten names.  The city has changed quite a bit over the last seven years.  A lot of very unhappy people.  It took us over two hours to get to our housesit in Cuatehmoc Delegation 10 minutes from the Garibaldi Square.  We taking an Uber back to the airport when we go home.  We can do it and we can handle it but life is too short to go through all that bullshit for $10.

Our housesit is very nice.  It turns out she's Canadian and has lived in Mexico City for 12 years.  She has a nice apartment but the neighborhood is a bit shady.  We had only been there about 30 minutes when across the street there was a fight in a house.  They kicked the guy out, put all his furniture on the street, and beat the bloody pulp out of him.  The guards in our buiding called the police and they arrived right away.  

We spent yesterday walking the neighborhood and we did a tour of the Guerrero Market.  Very nice.  From the outside it looks shady, I'll be using that word a lot it seems.  Inside, very clean, good produce, which we bought what we need for the week.  A lot of the small restaurant stalls have remodeled their space fronts so that they look very fashional and modern.  We'll be going there for breakfast on Sunday.  We bought some chicken to make a salad for dinner last night.  The butcher cut out a breast, cut it into small trozos (pieces) and charged us 63 pesos for half a kilo or one pound.

The walk was a bit depressing.  A lot of drug addicts selling used things on the street, old and broken furniture and trash and graffiti everywhere.  Sad to see this happening.  Friends who live here in CDMX say it's changing for the worst and quickly.  

The garbage truck comes by daily.  They collect the containers and bring them to the truck where they take everything apart and separate into recyclables.  The materials they recycle become their income.  You can see that they collect quite a bit.  I'm sure they also receive a small salary as well.  We need to treat them better.  Spain is a good example.  After the trash truck passes another comes by and washes the barrels and containers.  

Well, tomorrow's post will be better.  We had a great day riding trolley buses up and down the Reforma.  We visited the Chapultepec Castle and it was amazing.