Saturday, May 30, 2026

Three Days, 600 State Troops And Police, They Wouldn't Let Us In

living.boondockingmexico@yahoo.com

Before I get into the trip to the Zocalo, I want to go back a bit to the ruins at Tlateloco.  We returned to find a portion that had been closed when we went. It is by appointment only.  It is called the Caja de Agua.  

The Caja de Agua was a two-tank water cistern system built at the base of the convent in 1536.  It brought water to the area for use by the indigenous people, the clerics, and the monks.  It had a settling tank where the incoming water would settle.  The fresh water on top would pass to the "potable" tank.  The water source came from three areas: Azcapotzalco, Tacuba, and Chapultepec.  The water system was made from clay pipe, some from the prehispanic period.  

The day we went, they told us we could only enter by appointment and that there was a tour set for the students from the American School in Puerto Vallarta.  We pretty much begged, saying we were leaving the next day.  After a few phone calls, the tour guides agreed to let us join the school group.  The students were not interested, and the teacher cut the tour short.  The two archaeologist guides were very interested in showing us around.  Wow, a private tour.  




This drawing depicts Ahuizotl, the god and protector of Tlaloc, the god of water.  It is an otter-type animal and has a hand on the end of the tail.  


Around the perimeter are pieces of the later mural or moulding that have a 16th-century style.   Because the walls collapsed over the centuries, the pieces fell to the bottom and sides of the crumbling walls.


I was wrong in stating that the Amantes de Tlateloco were not there.  On the way out of the tour, we walked through the ruins, and we asked about the lovers.  At that moment, one of the guides said, "Look down," and there it was.  


We attempted to visit the Zocalo and the cathedral on three occasions.  Each time, we were met by blockades on 12 different avenues.   Teachers have been striking for months and are now planning marches against the National Palace.  They have camped out on the streets for over six months and have created chaos for all around them, mostly those who rely on the streets for the delivery of goods, including taxis.  

This is just one street.  The teachers are taking turns living there.  They cook, clean, and do their laundry as well.


The national palace was blocked off and barricaded.


On the third attempt, or our last day in Mexico City, Juan decided he would find a way in.  We begged, pleaded, and tried at every possible street entrance to no avail.  We finally convinced one policeman that we were just tourists on our last day and would go directly to the cathedral.  We got past the blockade and acted as if we were going to a jewellery store on the Zocalo perimeter.  We then passed through a construction site and made our way into a side entrance of the cathedral.   We have been there many times, but each time is something new.  This trip, we were able to take a short tour of the organ room, which is situated in the middle front of the cathedral.







The construction of the cathedral took over 240 years, beginning in 1573.  It is the largest and oldest cathedral in all of Latin America.  The site was almost abandoned in the 1600s due to a massive flood.  It was completed in 1813.  A fire consumed a great part of the organ room in 1967.  The organ room contains twin organs with pipes which were restored to near original condition. 

The cabinets that house the organs measure 52ft by 31 ft.  There are 3350 metal organ pipes.  


Two rows of seats determine which row the choir members will sit.  The ones with permanent positions sit up above, and the new members below.  Above and around the choir seats are wood-carved sculptures of Christian saints, apostles and bishops.






Overall, it was a great week with furkid time.  The cat was really a lover and would sit on our laps whenever we were home.  I think she doesn't get a lot of personal attention.  


I'm a realist and not an optimist, so I don't think we'll be going back soon.  The city is changing, and the neighbourhoods are in slow decay.  We were in a building that took up one city block, 7 floors, with 300 apartments.  The noise from the streets reverberates between the buildings, and everyone has a dog, so barking is constant.  Most of the places we have stayed in the past have dual or triple-pane windows, which block out the sound.  This building didn't.  

The biggest enemy you'll face in Mexico City neighbourhoods is dog poop everywhere.  Our building has signs that ask you not to let your dog pee on the walls.  All of them do, and a cleaning lady is out there all week scrubbing the walls.  

After our first day, we found out that all public transport is free for those over 65 if you are a Mexican or a permanent resident.  That was a good thing.  We needed to show our INAPAM (Instituto Nacional de las Personas Adultos Mayores) cards to get on at no charge.  

Except for tourist areas and museums, the city is overcrowded, difficult to walk in, and the sidewalks are in deplorable condition.   Trash looms on every corner in large piles.  Street people empty the trash bags and take off with the bags.  A lot of old furniture and old cars line the streets.  

It's worth the visit along major avenues such as Reforma, Eje Central, the Zocalo and upper-scale neighbourhoods; Roma, Condesa, Nápoles and the ultra-rich areas for a peek at how Mexico's wealthy live.  

Next up is our trip to Texas.  I'm not sure if we'll drive or fly like last year.  I have several rv dealers to visit on our search for a small travel trailer.  Nothing definite yet, just checking.


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